A: Never!  The ZeroChlor System uses only the most effective and efficient titanium based method for producing massive amounts of hydroxyl radicals which are used to sanitize the pool water.  We promise to never use ozone as a method of producing hydroxyl radicals.

A: Roughly every two years (depending on system usage) you will need to replace the copper bars as well as the UV bulbs inside your HET-UV chamber.  As of 2020, the price for replacement bars is $270 and the price for replacement bulbs is $300.  You can purchase replacement items directly from ZeroChlorPoolSystems.com.

A: We are working hard to build out our network of Certified Installers nationwide.  However, a large percentage of our clients do choose to install the system themselves.  A basic knowledge of plumbing and simple electrical is required.  Any pool company who can install a salt system has the skillsets to install a ZeroChlor System.  The most important thing is to watch the video on proper installation of the system and follow the instructions!

A: Yes.  But even more exciting we have had reports from pool owners that the ZeroChlor System actually reversed plaster scale AND scale buildup on natural stone waterfalls touched by running pool water.  We have limited data on the potential for plaster scale reversal so we cannot promise that existing plaster scale will be reversed.  However, we are asking all clients with preexisting plaster scale to document with pictures any plaster scale reversal that takes place within 6 months following installation of the ZeroChlor System and email the pictures to us. 

A: First, we don't use ozone in order to generate hydroxyl radicals.  Hydroxyl radicals are essential for any AOP system to properly sanitize the pool water.  The 6-Bar double sided titanium grid produces 40,000g of oxidation per hour making it (by far) the most powerful water treatment system available for swimming pool applications.  While there are other AOP systems employing similar titanium grid technology it is important to recognize that no other system even comes close to the titanium "surface area" offered by the ZeroChlor System.  Some AOP systems only offer smaller 2-bar one sided grids which is less than 1/16th of the hydroxyl producing power of the ZeroChlor System.

A: Never use the following things in conjunction with the ZeroChlor Pool System.

Zeolite:  Absorbs copper ions.

Salt:  Not necessary and highly corrosive.

Metal Based Algaecide:  Gives false copper test reading.

Soda Ash:  Raises alkalinity too much.

Copper Powder:  Gives false copper test reading.

Large Grit Filter Sand:  Will leave water cloudy.  We recommend 3-Stage Activated Glass Filtration.

A: The following items are compatible with the ZeroChlor Pool System:

FLOCCULANT:  Used to clear cloudy water. 

HYDROCHLORIC/MURIATIC ACID/CITRIC ACID:  Lowers pH.

CALCIUM CHLORIDE FLAKES (ONLY): To raise water conductivity and thereby increase the milliamp reading of the ZeroChlor Pool System.

PHOSPHATE REMOVER: Use as per label instructions.

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE:  Use as per label instructions.

CHLORINE:  Mix thoroughly prior to adding to pool water.  It is important that you turn the power off to the ZeroChlor Pool System while adding chlorine to the pool water and for one full hour after adding chlorine to the pool water.  Chlorine is not required at all when a pool is equipped with a ZeroChlor Pool System.  However, some clients use chlorine rare circumstances such as clearing up a green pool after uncovering in the spring.

GLASS MEDIA:  Much better filtration than sand, cartridge or DE.  However, many glass media products are subpar quality.  We recommend 3-Stage Activated Glass media inside a sand filter instead of sand.  Purchase at zerochlorpoolsystems.com.

SODIUM BICARBONATE:  Use sparingly to raise alkalinity slowly.

ALGAECIDE:  Only non-metal based algaecides.

SILICA SAND:  Fine grit .6-2mm.

OXALIC (Stain Remover):  To remove oxidation stains.

CYANURIC ACID (STABILIZER):  Has no effect on ZeroChlor Pool Systems.

SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE :  Use as directed on label instructions.  It is important that you turn the power off to the ZeroChlor Pool System while adding chlorine to the pool water and for one full hour after adding shock to the pool water.  Chlorine is not required at all when a pool is equipped with a ZeroChlor Pool System.

OXICLEAR:  Non-Chlorine Shock.  Use per label instructions.

A:

With Zerochlor Systems there is no harmful DBPs or chloramine gas produced in the water.

Unlike chlorine, salt chlorination or ozone that generate harmful sanitizers in the swimming pool itself, ZeroChlor sanitizes the water not the swimmer. The ZeroChlor oxygenator system is unique in that it produces powerful oxidizers OH, O1, H2O2 in a sealed chamber away from the swimmer. OH, O1 and H2O2 are highly unstable molecules that revert back to water immediately leaving only Oxygen and water that is sanitized, but non-toxic.

In the ZeroChlor swimming pool, swimmers are exposed to saturation levels of Dissolved Oxygen (DO). Because Oxygen is healthy, unlike chlorine and ozone there is no chance of harmful ‘overdosing’ the pool. Ionization output is regulated on the ZeroChlor system to produce and maintain only a trace amount of copper ions. Both oxygen and copper ions are effective sanitizers yet beneficial, non-burning, and non-corrosive leaving water soft and healthy.

A:  Yes. ZeroChlor swimming pool water is chemical free and salt free and can therefore be back washed directly to your garden and without diluting. With high levels of DO and only a trace amount of copper ions, water is non-toxic and healthy and complies with drinking water standards. Unlike salt and chlorine ZeroChlor does not pollute natural waterways.

A:  Yes. The corrosive nature of salt is bad in general and can damage the components of the ZeroChlor system. We highly recommend draining your pool if it is a gunite pool and refilling with fresh water at the time of upgrading your pool to the ZeroChlor Pool System.  If you own a vinyl pool you cannot drain the pool water below the shallow end break without damaging the pool liner so we recommend draining the pool down to 6 inches deep in the shallow end and refilling with fresh water.  After refill you should test the salt level in the pool.  Ideally, we want the salt level to be below 1000 before installing the ZeroChlor Pool System.  This process may need to be repeated to achieve a low enough salt content in the pool water.

A:  ZeroChlor’s microchip technology ensures a very low current is maintained at the copper anodes to produce a slow copper ion output.

After installing the ZeroChlor unit, copper output is initially set to 100%.

Once a level of 0.5ppm is achieved, copper output on the control pane can be adjusted down to 25% (or level suitable for your pool) which will maintain levels at 0.5ppm. This ensures levels will not rise too high. Zerochlor supplies a copper test kit.  Weekly testing of copper levels will ensure copper levels to not rise too high.

A:  If ionization output on the control panel is adjusted down this should not happen.

Copper levels of 1-2ppm is still within drinking water standards so there are no health risks.

However, should levels rise above 1ppm there is a risk of staining. This is easily removed and does not cause any damage or harmful bleaching.

A:  For residential pools UV is not essential, but a nice extra level of sanitation to have. ZeroChlor is currently NOT available for commercial pool applications.  ZeroChlor recommends including UV for Jacuzzis, Spa pools, hydrotherapy pools and Koi ponds or swimming pools that are heated above 32oC.

Since UV does not provide a sanitizing residual in the water, combining the UV technology with ZeroChlor rather than chlorine or bromine works extremely well. With ZeroChlor no chloramine gas or trihalomethanes are generated ensuring Spa water is healthy and no adverse smells are generated.

A:  Yes, all ZeroChlor systems come with a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty (excluding copper bars and UV Bulbs).  This warranty is automatically upgraded to 3 years if the system is installed by a recommended ZeroChlor installer.

A:  No, ZeroChlor systems can be customized to sanitize any size pool.  If your pool is larger than 40,000 gallons you will need to call 833-HYDROXYL to have a ZeroChlor technician design and price a ZeroChlor system specifically for your pool.

A:  Good filtration and flow rates are crucial with any form of water sanitation to ensure suspended/organic matter is removed. The WHO has recommended standards of flow rates and filtration rates according to application. 

For residential swimming pools ZeroChlor recommends 3-Stage Activated Glass Filtration by Dr. Dryden which is sold on the ZeroChlor website under the name "AFM".

Technical recommendations are provided with each ZeroChlor system.

A:  Simple and easy!  ZeroChlor Systems are no more difficult to install than conventional salt chlorinators and can be installed by most pool professionals or DIY pool owners in 2-4 hours.  Basic plumbing skills are required and electrical hookup should be conducted by a certified installer.  240v Service required.

A:  Yes. The ZeroChlor oxygenator system is excellent for heated water (far more efficient than chlorine or salt chlorinator systems since chlorine becomes useless over 90°F).

However, it is important that solar heating does not affect the flow rates. Pumping water to the roof greatly reduces flow rates and the swimming pool pump should therefore not be used for solar heating.

Solar heating should be installed on a separate dedicated line with its own pump. However, if using a heat pump or heat exchanger, this can be on the same line as the pool pump.

A:  Yes. However, the ZeroChlor System works best with an impervious lining such as fiber-lined, fiberglass, epoxy painted or tiled pools. Porous linings such as marcite leaches calcium into the water which has the effect of raising the pH of the water. Water quality and pH is more stable with an impervious lining.

Although it can work in good quality marcite pools, white marcite linings are prone to copper discoloration (blue color). The calcium can act as a magnet for the ionization. This may cause the copper to fall out of suspension and discolor white marcite. Charcoal or dark colored pools are no problem since you won’t see any copper discoloration.

Since ZeroChlor pools are chlorine free, you do not get the formation of copper chloride and therefore no black stains on your lining (excluding the very rare cases of mold growing under vinyl pool liners).

A:  No. With ZeroChlor water is soft and gentle. With no chlorine or salt, there are no bleaching or aggressive water chemicals to destroy the filter sand, pumps, immediate pools surround and indeed the pool shell itself!  As with any pool of water...low pH can be damaging to pool components.

A:  Yes, but since the quality of well water can vary from region to region and the quality can change from time to time, well water is generally not ideal.

Well water may contain black algae, pathogens such as E.coli and faecal coliforms as well as harmful heavy metals such as mercury and cyanide. Depending on water quality home owners that use well water to top up their pools may need to provide a small boost of chlorine or boost with 50% Hyprox (H2O2) when and if needed.

Well water is often rich in iron, sulphur and heavy metals. Therefore, as with chlorine sanitation we recommend a metal removal pre-treatment prior to switching the ZeroChlor system on. Periodic repeat treatments may be required depending on water quality.

A:  As with any form of sanitation we cannot guarantee that your pool will never go green. Failure to maintain your pool correctly is the main cause (by far) for deteriorating water quality. These include not back washing your filters weekly; allowing pH to rise over 7.2; low conductivity due to low calcium hardness levels, poor flow rates and not removing debris, leaves and dirt from your pool and pump basket. Pools that are under-filtrated and that have poor flow rates are more likely to green than pools with correct filtration. To remedy you can shock your pool using chlorine or to remain chlorine free you may use 50% Hyprox (H2O2; 1 Gallon per 10,000 Gallons)

A:  Yes, we have many pools operating on variable speed pumps. Ideally you should turn over/filter your entire volume of water 2x per day. So you can reduce your flow rate substantially and run your pump for 24 hours to achieve the required number of turnover periods.

A:  Yes absolutely. Copper is a very effective natural algaecide.

The only times when you can have problems with algae is if you neglect your pool, or if you have stagnant areas in your pool or areas with very poor flow rates. It is important during the pool design to ensure your suction and return inlets create a good flow and circulation throughout the pool.  Pools without any main drains and only skimmers tend to have more issues with algae growth due to lack of circulation / stagnant areas.